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Chase County Kansas Historical Sketches


1863 - 2003



Chase County Courthouse

On September 5. 1871, Isaac Alexander donated to Chase County two and one-half acres of land, at the head of Broadway Street, on condition that the courthouse and jail be built upon the land, with a street 80 feet wide located around the area, and be dedicated to public use.

James Bannon of Leavenworth, Kansas, was the contractor. John G. Haskell of Lawrence, Kasas, was the architect and superintendent. John Emslie had the contract for the stone and brick work; Byers and Russell of Leavenworth did the tin and sheet iron work; M. Madden, Leavenworth, did the painting; W.M. Cronan, Cottonwood Falls, did the plastering and moulding. Stone-cutters and stone-masons were John F. Cook, W.P. Rettiger, P. J. Norton, Nicholas Rettiger and sons, Peter Shepner, Andrew Wager, Henry and Joseph Plumberg, Jeff Daugherty and S.P. Watson. A.B. Watson and J. Breamer worked as plasterers and carpenters. L.P. Jenson was a master workman who did the finishing work. G.H. Austin and Charles T. Clark built the beautiful native walnut winding stairway.

The Courthouse is built in Renaissance style of architecture of the period of Louis XIII. It has a basement, two stories with mansard roof and cupola; it stands 113 feet from ground to top of the flagpole. All the stone came from Chase County. It was completed October 8, 1873, at a total cost of $42,599.88 and was opened to the public for a housewarming. The 500 pound bell was hung in 1886.

The Chase County courthouse was entered on the National Register of Historic Places, February 24, 1971.

By: Irene Eshbaugh

Ripplings of the transitions of the 100 year old courthouse

Today in 1972 after one hundred years of life for the Chase County Courthouse, one pauses to explore the transitions. If only the building could relate for itself to us! The stories would be far more interesting than one can relate now about the ripplings and happenings of its past one hundred years.

Carrie Breese Chandler wrote for the Chase County Leader in 1940 and reported in her article, "Building Chase County's Courthouse -- A Monument to Pioneer Fortitude," the following story:

"A year or two ago, late one summer afternoon, I was standing on the steps of the courthouse when I noticed two strangers looking up at the building with usual interest.

''We are admiring this courthouse," said one of them in explanation. "We are Kansans out looking over our own state. Our county just finished a courthouse that cost $175,000, and it can't hold a candle to this one. It is a perfect jewel. How long has it been here? You don't see stone-cutting like that any more."

They went up to the courtroom, which I was comfortably mindful, had just been "done over." As they came down the stairs, I heard one of them say as he ran his hand along the graceful stair rail, "This thing is beautiful. It was made by men who loved their work."

Looking in 1972 at the guest register at the foot of the beautiful stairway reveals that in the last six years (the register was placed there in June, 1966) over 3,000 visitors (registrations average 500 a year) have been a part of the life of this unique building. Many people come to the courthouse for a definite purpose such as family research, marriage or other business purposes and find themselves involved in visiting, studying, and enjoying this oldest courthouse in Kansas that is still in use as a courthouse.

Some of the comments recorded in the register are: "breathtaking,'' "beautiful part of America." "landmark that has been here as long as any resident can remember, Don't tear it down," "Craftsmanship superb," "never lose this building," "historically fantastic;" "never destroy it,' "groovy, clever building," "interesting part of our country's heritage," "the clock can be repaired.'' "very impressive building, like a painting," "wonderful, keep it as it is," and manjy many others.

One major disaster almost kept this landmark from being preserved. On December 3, 1966, about 5:30 p.m. according to the Chase County Leader News, "Terror struck the very hearts of area residents Saturday night as flames barely glimmered then belched from the cupola of Chase County's historic courthouse." The blaze broke out in the area of the electric clock and the Christmas star at the very top. A local citizen was heard to remark at the fire, "I would almost rather it was my home." But the fire contained within a forty-minute period by the efficient work of the volunteer firemen. The cause was faulty wiring, and the repairs cost $20,000. The clock was completely destroyed, and never again has the risk been taken to have the lovely Christmas star glisten over the area. The clock was replaced: it is mounted high in tire cupola on the north side overlooking the business section of the town. It is six feet in diameter; each hand is three and one-half feet from one end to the other. Each hand weighs 120 pounds. It in synchronized with a clock inside the building.

Since this "breathtaking" building was almost destroyed by fire, local county officers and citizens have worked diligently to preserve and restore it for posterity. The courtroom has been redecorated with walnut stained venetian blinds that match the walnut trimming around the spacious windows and the wainscoting, with carpeting, with green umbrella-shaped light fixtures, and with white drapes and special overhead lighting to spotlight the judge's bench with the United States flag and the Kansas flag. The steps of the winding stairway to the courtroom have been completely carpeted. Bathroom facilities are now available for ladies and gentlemen both in the basement and on the first floor. The commissioners' room, the register of deeds' office, and the sheriff's office, as well as the sheriff's quarters in the south part, have been paneled and redecorated. The welfare office in the basement has also been paneled. The stone on the outside of the building has been "pointed up," and the red trim has been brightened. The furnace that was, originally installed in the courthouse was not satisfactory. In January, 1871, six stoves were installed. but the old hot air registers are still in some of the walls today. A successful steam heating system has been operating over 50 years and each of the offices and the sheriff's living quarters have room air conditioners in the windows for summer cooling.

The jail consists of one large room with native stone walls. The ceiling and floor are constructed of 2" by 12" on edge, spiked together and covered with sheets of steel. Two separate cells on the inside of the large room and an exercise area are constructed of sheet iron and steel bars. The inside doors of the inner cells are operated by a lever from outside the cells. The windows have bars and the main entrance is blocked by one large solid steel door and a metal bar door. The interior of the jail is painted solid gray except for some of the rivets which were painted red by a former prisoner who needed something to do in his spare time. The furnishings of the jail consist of a metal constructed picnic style table, six cots, and a Holy Bible.

During the years the bell has been rung to signal special events and occasions -- the finding of a murderer, the opening of district court, the ending of world wars, etc. Special efforts have been made to resume the ringing of the bell even though the louvers have been closed which muffles the sound. The fifth grade class of Cottonwood Falls Grade school wrote a letter to the Editor of the Chase County Leader-News directed to the county commissioners asking to have the bell rung. The commissioners have recorded in their minutes that the bell shall be rung on special occasions, and it will be "tolled" during the centennial occasions. Because the bell was not loud enough to be heard over the entire town, a siren has been installed on the courthouse roof above the jail. It is used in case of fires, for tornado warning, and to signal 12:00 noon.

In 1950, new floors in the main hall of the courthouse were laid, and at that time a copy of a letter written February 26, 1924, was found by the workmen who were laying the new floors. A copy of the letter follows:

TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:

This beautiful bright February day Mr. Levi Chandler, the county treasurer, and the janitor, Harry Hudson, are laying a hardwood floor in the courthouse hall. Mr. Chandler is doing the work for nothing if the commissioners will let the county pay for the material. The floor is needed as the old one has been down more than fifty years. The courthouse was finished the 27th of September, 1873, and this is the first whole new floor since then. The county officers are: Charles Jacobs, Sheriff; Charles E. Davis, County Attorney; Clint Baldwin, County School Superintendent; P. J. Norton, Clerk of District Court; T. G. Allen, Probate Judge; John I. McClellan, County Clerk; Mildred Speer, Register of Deeds; G.H. Lamb, Jr., County Engineer; Judge Harris, District Judge; Calvin Coolidge, President of the United States, up for re-election; Jonathan Davis, Democratic governor of Kansas, also up for re-election.

This town has a population of 865. Strong City has 905. We have paved streets, water works, sewer systems, and electric lights.

The railroad is being built through Bazaar and Matfield to El Dorado. It will probably be finished by Spring. The main line of the Santa Fe was finished about 1871, 1 mean out to Newton and beyond. Mrs. Stephen M. Wood was the first woman who went over the main line from Emporia to Topeka (to visit her husband in the legislature.)

My father, Sidney A. Breese helped lay out this town in 1859, and was on the first board of County Commissioners of Chase County, April, 1859, The county has a population somewhat less than 7,000. If this floor stays down as long as the last one did; it will not be taken up till 1972; one hundred years from the building of` the Courthouse. There ought to be more improvements by then.

I can remember as a small child, sitting in the east window on the third floor and seeing antelopes running on the hills east of town. I wonder if the buffalo-wallows will be gone by 1972. There are plenty of them in the bottoms yet. I remember very well when the Kaw Indians had their reservation near Council Grove. The last "Indian Scare" was in 1868, when the Cheyennes came in to fight the Kaws at "The Grove" and get back their stolen ponies. The remnant of the Kaws is in Oklahoma now, but Senator Charles Curtiss would not find many of his kinfolks left. He is part Kaw, and not ashamed of it.

There is a crack left where I can put this letter under the floor, so here it goes. Good luck to the finder.

Carrie Breese Chandler, Deputy County Treasurer County Commissioners: R.Z. Blackburn, Clarence North, and Fritz Pracht.

A copy of this letter and another one written in 1950 was placed under the new floor to be open- ed at some future date.

Very few changes have been made to the general appearance of the landscape of the courthouse. A blue grass lawn is well kept, and there are many beautiful flowers during the growing season. Cedar trees (causes of "hot" disagreements over the years) grace the front lawn, and many elm trees stand straight and tall on the east, south, and west parts of the lawn. On the southwest corner of the lawn, the Roniger Museum of stone that matches the courthouse stands -- it was erected in 1959.

In the northeast corner, one sees the Japanese cannon which replaced the German artillery piece that was sent for scrap iron during World War II. Beside the cannon and to the west is the memorial stone. It was placed there on May 30, 1927, by the American Legion Auxiliary. This stone honors the twenty-one Chase County men and one woman who gave their lives in World War I. Later the names of twenty-six men giving their lives in World War II were added.

The stonewall that was laid in 1881 around the front part of the north lawn remains. The flag flies frorn the pole at the top of the steps leading up the wide sidewalk to the entrance of the courthouse. A handrailing up the center of the walk is helpful to many making the "long walk" up to the courthouse.

The Kansas Historical Marker, located just west of the memorial stone, was dedicated September 19, 1969. This marker denotes the courthouse as a "Landmark of Distinction."

At the 80th anniversary celebration, October 14, 1953, spotlights were turned on for the first time directing light on the north facade and the dome of the building. This makes a beautiful picture at night as one approaches the vicinity. The idea of erecting spotlights around the courthouse was discussed by the Cottonwood Fails Chamber of Commerce, and Jim Bell, Jr., served as chairman. Contributions came from local citizens as well as former residents who had lived here when the courthouse was under construction. Mrs. Lee Swope, when sending her contribution, wrote that the builders of the courthouse lived in tents and her brother worked as a water boy to supply the workers with drinking water.

One hundred years ago after the courthouse and the jail had been accepted by the county commissioners an initial housewarming was held on Friday. October 17, 1873. It is recorded that. the new courthouse was thrown open to the publicfrom 9 a.m. until midnight. The public could go and look it over all day for nothing; but in the evening the library association sponsored a ball in the courtroom Tickets were sold for a $1 a couple. Tables were spread in the new jail. and supper was an extra charge. Everyone was happy, and the !ibrary association made $100.

For the centennial celebration in 1972, there will be three days of activities with the courthouse being open to the public. A street dance in front of the courthouse will be a part of the hustle- bustle, but each and every visitor and participant should climb the steps around the gorgeous stairway, peer into the courtroom and out of the porthole, peek into the jail, witness one's presence in the guest register, and reminisce with others of the many pictures of the, history of Chase County hanging on the walls in the halls.

The survival of this 100 year-old structure, over the tendency in the space age to replace itwith something in style, is surprising. But vigilance must be exercised to preserve it for posterrity; therefore, the walls and halls of this landmark must be treasured and visited from the basement to the attic of the front and of the back.

On the one hlrndred twenty-fifth anniversary, may local observers continue to witness "that there isn't a day that passes that travelers do not pause to view the building and snap pictures of the picturesque Chase County Courthouse." May it be preserved forever!

Written By: Ruea (Pendergraft) Thurston

Sponsored By: Chase County Business and Professional Club

Sponsored By: Mr. and Mrs. Darwin K. Reyer
Mr. and Mrs. Craig Reyer - Suzanne and Kim

Chase County Centennial, 1872- 1972




Chase County Submitted Historical Sketches
compiled and abstracted from the Chase County Courant, Chase County Leader, other sources and newspapers
by Lorna Marvin
Please submit your historical sketches.



Return to Chase County Submitted Historical Sketches


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