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CHAPTER VII.

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TRANSPORTATION

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HIGHWAYS IN EARLY DAYS — FREIGHTING — GOVERNMENT TRAINS — MATHEWSON — STAGE COACHES — EXPERIENCES OF STAGE COACH DAYS — STAGE DRIVERS — PASSING OF THE STAGE COACH DAYS — RAILROADS — FIRST RAILROAD BONDS VOTED — ANOTHER BOND ELECTION — SANTA FE — MISSOURI PACIFIC — FRISCO — COMMUNICATION — PIONEER MAIL CARRIER — STAR ROUTE — AUTOMOBILES.

The highways in the early days ran as the crow flew, directly from point to point. Right angles were not a necessity. The pioneer was familiar with the long angling prairie road; stretching out like a great snake as far as the eye could see. There were of course no bridges provided for the traveler. The streams must be "forded" in the most available place. Many of these crossings were more or less dangerous, especially in time of floods. Some hazardous experiences and hairbreadth escapes may be related from encounters with swollen streams.

The roads of that period were not "worked." In the event they became cut up too much, the driver drove out at one side, the great prairie space being so ample. This meant virtually moving the road over, for the new tracks usually became the next road. Thus the road grew indefinitely wider and wider. These prairie roads were said to be the best natural roads ever traveled. It were well this were so, for all goods, wares, or merchandise, including lumber, must be brought over them.

Freighting—Everything and everybody came in wagons. Wagons drawn by cattle, oxer[sic] or, later, by horses. The supplies for the stores, the household goods of the settler who came from "back east," such lumber as was necessary outside of the native timber, all must be hauled into the county over the long road, he[sic] first distance being as far as Leavenworth away. The distance decreased as the railroad approached, from Leavenworth to Lawrence, from Lawrence to Topeka, from Topeka to Emporia. The hauling of goods of all kinds in the county developed into an industry. This was commonly called freighting. Many men, freighters, were thus employed. Men who spent the long hours on the trail, stopping to cook their meals by the wayside, camping at night in the best shelter afforded, sleeping in the wagon or

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under the open sky. A time for telling long tales or for thinking long thoughts, a time of exposure and monotony, occasionally a time of thrills or a time of fear, but withall when scanned from the distance of the years, an interesting time.

Government supplies were taken from Leavenworth to Fort Sill through this county. A government train consisted of from a half dozen to a dozen wagons, drawn either by about three span of mules or six yoke of cattle—mostly the long-horned Texas cattle. By reason of the large spring and attractive location these government trains made a camping place at Towanda. The last of such trains to pass through Butler county was in the spring of 1871. This train was in charge of William Mathewson—the original Buffalo Bill—transporting supplies from Leavenworth, Kan., to Fort Sill, Indian Territory. The train consisted of about fifteen government trail wagons—one wagon hitched to another—they were drawn by six yoke of long-horned Texas cattle. On account of high water they were compelled to go into camp on the hill east of the Whitewater on the present townsite of Towanda, about where the Robison boys now reside. The Whitewater at that time was out of its banks and covered the valley to a depth of almost two feet, from the bluffs to the west side of the river. They were in camp at the time for a week or ten days. After the waters had subsided they doubled teams across the valley—putting twelve yoke to each wagon—and they made some noise as they went across, Buffalo Bill on his cayouse heading the way. The long horns of the cattle kept time to the popping of the whips of the drivers, who on their ponies were using language somewhat more forcible than elegant, but they crossed.

I have always appreciated the fact of their camping where they did at that time, as I thereby met and formed an acquaintance with Mr. Mathewson, and whom I had the pleasure of meeting many times thereafter. A man of splendid physique, with a heart of like proportion, a good comrade; quiet, modest, unobtrusive, but the master of all he undertook; all under him, obeying his nod, wave of the hand or quiet command without murmur; beloved by all with whom he came in contact. A typical man of a typical country, he passed away in the city of Wichita, March, 1916. The world is better for his having lived. Peace to his ashes.

Stage Coaches—The first carriers of passengers for hire were the old Concord coaches, swung on leather springs; passengers inside, baggage strapped on the rear, driver on top, and the mail sack in the boot at his feet. Each coach was drawn by four horses. Two lines of these coaches passed into and through Butler county, commencing in 1870 and continuing in some form or other until 1872, at which time the railroad reached Newton.

One of these lines operated between Emporia and Wichita, making the trip—100 miles—daily. On the route at points about ten miles in distance, were stage stations for the purpose of changing horses. In

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this county these stations were located at Sycamore Springs, Chelsea, El Dorado, Towanda and Payne's Ranch on Dry Creek. This latter way station was typical of primitive life and conditions. The establishment consisted of an old plains dugout, which was the house, and another one of similar fashion scooped out of the river bank, which was the barn, but was a hospitable stopping place withal. Hay and corn could be obtained for the horse, while mankind was offered a choice of crackers, cheese, tobacco or a drop of "something-to-take." The owner of this ranch and host of this hospitality was Capt. David L. Payne, the man who was afterward largely responsible for the opening up of Oklahoma, at the time it was first opened to settlement. Though a man much older than myself, he was my friend, and a larger hearted, more liberal companionable man I have not often met.

The second of these stage lines passed between Humboldt and Wichita. This line made trips tri-weekly. In writing of this early manner of travel the writer's mind harks back to the appointed hour when the stage coach was due, it being one of his duties, with his brother, to have ready the fresh relay of horses. The hum of excitement as the old clumsy coach and galloping four appeared on the trail, the noise and confusion as they drew up at the door, five minutes' flurry of bustle and change, a trading of mail sacks, a few passengers to come or go, and the crack of the driver's whip before he had fairly grasped the lines as they were tossed up, a final flourish as he disappeared down the valley and the thrill went out of life.

Many also were the experiences of the old stage trails. On one occasion the outfit pulled up at Towanda, the horses showing evidence of an unusually hard drive, and the passengers trembling with an uncanny excitement. About two miles out from Payne's Ranch, the last station, the dead bodies of two men had been discovered, just outside the line of travel. How they came there or where from was never known. The bodies had the appearance of having been tied to the rear of a wagon and dragged by the neck. Two theories were advanced. One that the men had been in possession of stolen property, and that Judge Lynch had convened court, tried, sentenced and executed them; the other theory was that the two men were traveling through the country with good outfits, which were coveted of someone, and in order to mislead the authorities, an attempt had been made to give the impression that the dead men had been horse thieves caught in the act.

Sometimes a driver of the stage line would attempt to carry a load more than was visible to the eyes. One of these drivers once left Towanda, his horses on the run for Wichita. By the time he reached the Whitewater at the John Heath crossing he was exceeding the speed limit to such an extent that, in making a necessary turn, the coach was turned completely over, or, as the position was described by an old Dutchman, who was inside and who came back to Towanda for assistance, the coach "sot up." No great damage and no serious injury being

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found, the coach was righted and the journey continued, one of the passengers taking a seat with the driver for protective purposes.

The Rev. Isaac Mooney, father of the writer, was at that time postmaster at Towanda and had delivered the mail to this driver. Arriving at the scene of the accident, Mr. Mooney picked up the mail sack and said "Young man, when you get sober you may carry mail here, but not until then." He then carried the mail back to the office, where it remained for the next stage. Thus was postal law and order evolved according to the requirements.

But, remembered also, are the good, careful, accommodating drivers. Among these was William Hammond, who afterward homesteaded land in Fairview township. Another one was Nate Roberson, who located in El Dorado, owning and operating the transfer and bus line. An old omnibus, a relic of this service, yet remains with us. After the railroad was continued from Emporia the route of the Emporia-Wichita line was changed, the stage leaving Florence and continuing down the Walnut valley to Winfield. The Humboldt line was discontinued.

The old stage coach days are now gone forever. With the advancement of the railroad came the disappearance of the stage. This happened of necessity; a natural giving away to progression, to speed, to expediency. But one who has lived through the palmy days of the old coach-and-four will long remember the experience, the thrills, the glories, that may not elsewhere be found. Henry Tisdale, long connected with stages and stage lines, and who operated a line in Butler county, in a reminiscent article concerning his early work, writes thus: "There is probably no more pleasing sight than to see, as I have many a time, a fine stage team hitched to a Concord coach, well loaded with passengers, and hear the driver's horn go out, and see the stage swing along like a thing of life. The horses tramp in unison; the axles talk at the wheels work back and forth from nut to shoulder-washer; driver with ferruled whip, and ivory rings on harness, drive up and say 'Whoa!' unhitch the horses and see them take their places in the stable as if they were human; see the next team started from the stable by speaking to them, and take their places at the coach so the breast straps and tugs can be hitched without moving an inch, every horse in his place. It is one of the finest scenes on earth, and the delight of an old stageman who has staged continuously for forty years."

Railroads—The early railroad history of Butler county is similar to that of other new lands waiting the coming of the iron bands; a record of promise and delay, of attempt and failure, of endeavor and defeat; efforts from the company to secure the co-operation of the settlers; efforts of the settlers to enlist the interest of the company. That hopes and expectations were high and the pleasure in "paper railroads" was great in anticipation, may be gathered from an article taken from the first copy of the Walnut Valley "Times," the date being March 4, 1870: "Our railroad prospects are brightening day by day as we approach the

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time of their reality and we can almost hear the puffing of the engine and the shrill tone of the brakeman as he calls out, El Dorado! Twenty minutes for dinner! Change cars for Fort Scott and the East! Santa Fe passengers keep your seats.' Yes, the time is near at hand when our people will enjoy the privileges that only railroads bring to a country like ours; rich in resources and only awaiting development.

"The line of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railway was last summer surveyed and definitely established up the valley of the South

[IMAGE]
SANTA FE DEPOT, EL DORADO, KANS.

Fork and down the Walnut valley via El Dorado. This road is being built with great rapidity and will doubtless be our first to celebrate, while the Fort Scott, El Dorado & Santa Fe is preparing for an early completion to this place. The P. G. B. & S. F. via El Dorado is an extension of the P. F. and is having a large subscription and liberal land grants. It will afford us direct connection with all eastern roads at Kansas City. The Humboldt, El Dorado & Wichita railroad has been recently organized and articles of incorporation filed. Its officers are men of energy and ability, besides being personally interested along the

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line of the road, and with the government aid they are promised, they propose to complete the road the present year. Among the several railroads in contemplation by the citizens of El Dorado and many railroads that are now being discussed by the people of Kansas, there is no other one of more importance than the Preston, Salina & Denver railway. Starting from Salina, its present northern terminus, it will run a short distance up the valley of the Smokey Hill river; thence across and along the Cottonwood valley and thence down the fertile and well-timbered valley of the Walnut to the south line of the State; thence south to the city of Preston, Texas, where it will meet a line from Galveston, the principal city of the gulf coast. Then, to consider the immense riches that will develop in agriculture and mining by its northern course, we will naturally conclude that this is the natural route for the Great French line railway of Kansas and the road of special importance to the citizens of El Dorado, as here it will connect with the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe and our other roads to the east, and commands our appropriation and aid. We should, therefore, use our best endeavors to advance its interests, as well as the interests of all the roads that are moving in this direction, by voting them bonds and urging our representative in Congress to secure the passage of bills to endow these roads with liberal land grants to the end that they may be speedily constructed, when El Dorado will be amply compensated by being the railroad center of the southwestern Kansas." These roads were none of them built. They were only a part of the old settlers' dreams, the "baseless fabric of a vision." The Santa Fe continued its way westward, but did in time send a branch through the county.

The first railroad bonds were voted in 1871 to the Walnut Valley Railroad Company. In September, 1871, an election was called for October 10, 1871, on the proposition to vote county bonds in the sum of $200,000 to the Walnut Valley Railroad Company, the bonds to be issued "when that company, or any other railroad company which the Walnut Valley Railroad Company shall legally authorize to do the same, shall have completed the said road in accordance with this proposition." The result of this election was 526 votes in favor of the bonds and 434 against. The bonds were never issued. In 1872 a proposal was made for the Fort Scott, Humboldt & Western railroad, this road to come from the east through Eureka, El Dorado and to the west line of the county. The county was asked to subscribe $150,000 worth of bonds. On April 23, 1872, an election was called for May 18, 1872. This proposition, submitted to vote, was defeated, the vote resulting 1,037 for the bonds and 1,240 against.

A proposition from this same company was again submitted in July of the same year, in connection with propositions from two other companies. This election, called in June, 1872, was ordered for July 13 and described as for the purpose of voting bonds as follows: To the Fort Scott, Humboldt & Western Railway Company, $10,000, the road to pass

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through the townships of Rosalia, Prospect, El Dorado, Towanda and Denton; to the Kansas & Nebraska Railway Company, $100,000, the road to come through Plum Grove, Towanda and on to Augusta and Douglass; to the Eureka, Douglass & Santa Fe Railroad Company, $100,000, this road to be built by way of Rosalia to the juncture of the north and south forks of the Little Walnut, in a southwesterly direction, following the valley of the Little Walnut river to Douglass. These three propositions were submitted as follows: The proposition of the Fort Scott, Humboldt & Western, to be voted on in connection with that of the Kansas & Nebraska; that is, a vote cast for one proposition was a vote cast for the other proposition. Likewise the proposition of the Eureka, Douglass & Santa Fe was to be voted on in connection with that of the Kansas & Nebraska. This maintained a balance of distribution of proposed railway over the county. However, the propositions were defeated, the vote of the first being 366 in favor of the bonds and 1,058 against, and that of the second being 189 for and 1,296 against.

Again, on October 7, 1872, an election was ordered for the purpose of voting bonds to the Kansas & Nebraska Railway Company, the proposed road to be built down the Whitewater, through Towanda, Augusta and Douglass. The company asked the county for a subscription of $200,000. The proposition was voted on and carried, the voting resulting 1,187 for and 811 against. But the panic of 1873 came on and the building of the road was first postponed and then abandoned. These railroad bonds are all that were voted upon by the county, the voting of other bonds from proposed or builded railroads, having been done by the townships interested.

In April, 1876, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Company proposed building a branch line from Cedar Point down the valley to El Dorado, and ultimately to and beyond the south line of the county. This proposition was for a cash bonus of $3,000 per mile, to be paid by townships pro ratio, no exchange of bonds and stocks being asked. The question was of much discussion. Evidence grew that a road would be built from some point on the main line under some conditions. During the agitation Florence made successful interference to have that town the initial point of the branch. In February, 1877, bonds aggregating $99,500 were voted to the new line, which was designated as the El Dorado & Walnut railroad. Work was at once begun. This was the first laying of the iron bands in Butler county. The road was finished as far as El Dorado on July 31, 1877, at 6:27 p.m. The terminus of the road was the old station in north El Dorado. On September 4, 1877, an excursion train was run from Topeka and the citizens of El Dorado were given a free trip to Florence and return. This was the occasion of a great jubilee. A celebration was held in the grove, Governor Anthony being present and making the principal address. This road was built on south through the county in 1885. Several other roads were in turn proposed but not built. The Kansas City, Burlington & Southwestern Railway and Tele-

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graph proposed building east and west. This proposition was considered favorably by the townships interested, the vote being 322 to 128. But the matter was dropped and the road not built.

February 21, 1880, the townships of Douglass and Walnut voted aid to the St. Louis, Wichita & Western. This also was dropped and the road never built. In 1879 was the second actual railroad building in Butler. The St. Louis, Fort Scott & Wichita began building a line east and west. Work was begun in 1879, though bonds were not voted by the county in behalf of the prospect until 1880. Bonds voted by the townships interested were as follows: Rosalia, $10,000; Prospect $18,500; and Benton, $11,000, the payment being subject to the actual building of the roads. The railroad for many years called the "Sunflower Road," is now a part of the Missouri Pacific system.

The next railroad to enter the county was the Frisco, built in 1879. Butler county now has four lines and 212.48 miles of railroad to enter and pass through the county. The Florence, El Dorado & Walnut Valley, 73.56 miles, a branch of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, traverses the county from north to south, passing through Burns, DeGraff, El Dorado, Augusta, Gordon and Douglass. This line branches at Augusta, passing through Rose Hill to Mulvane. The Missouri Pacific, 64.79 miles, crossing the county east to west, passes through Rosalia, Pontiac, El Dorado, Towanda and Benton. A branch from El Dorado passes through Potwin, Brainard and Whitewater. The Frisco railroad, 64.08 miles, also crosses the county east to west, passing through Beaumont, Keighley, Leon, Haverhill, Augusta and Andover. This road, branching at Beaumont, runs through Latham and Atlanta. The Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific, 10.05 miles, crosses the county in the northwest corner, passing through Whitewater and Elbing.

Communication—When the early settlers came into the county, they isolated themselves in deed and in truth from relatives left behind and from news of the outside world. The nearest postoffice was at Lawrence. There a box—"Box 400"—was rented by the residents of Butler. All mail thus addressed was sent down to Emporia by hack. From Emporia the mail was sent down into this county as anyone chanced to be passing this way. Think of it. We, with our free deliveries and parcel post and the five or six daily papers that each needs must have.

In 1858 Chelsea was made a regular distributing station for mail, and in 1860 a postoffice was established at El Dorado. In 1863 a regular mail line was established, running from Cottonwood Falls, through Butler county, to Wichita. These mail lines thus established were called star routes. The places on these routes were commonly designated in the books of the postoffice with an asterisk or "star." Contracts were let by the government for the carrying of the mail in this manner.

A mail carrier remembered is Frank Harrison, who carried all the mail for Butler county in 1866. Mr. Harrison made the trips on horse-

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back, taking three days for the round trip from Cottonwood Falls, and delivering the mail once a week. There were three postoffices in the county at that time, Chelsea, El Dorado and Towanda. L. M. Pratt was postmaster at Chelsea, Henry Martin at El Dorado and Sam Fulton at Towanda. Mr. Harrison received $450 for carrying the mail. Gilbert Green of Towanda had the contract for carrying the mail on the route through the early seventies. This time a spring wagon or buckboard was used. Mr. Green and his sons were all fearless horsemen and hard drivers, and one of the memories of that period is the familiar sight of one of the Green boys flying across the country with a galloping horse and rattling, bounding, bouncing old buckboard.

One star route remains in Butler county today, a line running from El Dorado to Cassoday. The present driver is W. H. McCraner, who uses a Ford car, and makes the trip daily.

Automobiles—The automobile, which came seemingly to play, has remained to work. Such a short season since the first appearance, and how swift the increase. Automobiles have passed from being a curiosity; have gone beyond being a luxury. They are a material feature of the great operating force which turns the great wheel of Butler county life and fortune today. The first automobile was brought into the county about 1903 by Warren E. Brown, of Augusta. The second one was owned by Dr. Richardson, then of Augusta, and the third one by Dr. F. E. Garvin, also of Augusta. Thus, Augusta had three the head start of the county. The first automobile in El Dorado was owned by Dr. J. A. McKinzie. Dr. McKinzie, while trying to ascend a hill in Riverside, lost control of his machine. It turned off the embankment, pinning him underneath, which accident resulted in his death some days later. In the county now, 1916, there are about 1,150 automobiles and eighty-five motorcycles. Also may be found twenty-eight dealers in automobiles and three dealers in motorcycles.

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